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“The Wave” by Susan Casey

August 21, 2012 by Julia Flynn Siler Leave a Comment

The ancient Polynesians felt profound respect for the power of the sea. Their custom was to carry ti leafs with them when they went on risky journeys. As Susan Casey reports in her masterful book, The Wave, California-born but Hawaii-bred surfing legend Laird Hamilton, perhaps superstitiously, always carries a ti leaf along with him as he hunts down the world’s monster waves. “You take the leaf out,” Hamilton told her, “and the leaf brings you home.” So far it’s worked for him.

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Filed Under: Hawaii, Research, Surfing, The Writing Life, Uncategorized Tagged With: Books, Hawaii, Surfing

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